ST is now an approved class

With the interior removed, the cage installed, 3/8ths tank of gas, and me in the car is 3350lbs. With a little work it would be pretty easy to get to a min weight of 3200; which is what I am shooting for next year. If you pull the bumper beams and replace the side windows with lexan you should be able to get tot a 3000lbs min weight.
 
Thanks Steve! That will make a motor build quite easy making that type of WHP should be easy to make a reliable car. I am overseas again but should be back by mid Jan to do a test fit in your car. Happy Holidays!!

Nick
 
I would ASSUME your weight to be at 10:1 pound per HP would be your POST race weight on the scales. NOT whatever you weigh during the dyno run. So don't get thw weight too close.
 
clintonracing said:
I'm not touching that one with a 10ft poll :D
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ROFL!!!

I have been running the piss out of my car for a while now and the motor has 65k miles on her and still running great. Honestly I think not having a pro-tune and running an OTS map is what killed your motor other than the one incorrect build. Let Tim Bailey get a hold of the car and it will run for a long time.

Oh and are you still going to throw the FPgreen on your car even though you shouldn't need it with the 10:1 rules? The Vf-39 works good enough in my opinion and is cheap as hell to replace. My torque band tuned with 94 octane was between 3-6k RPM and it was very nice. When I come for a test fit we'll have to take my car out for a spin and see what you think.
 
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nickrice20 said:
ROFL!!!

I have been running the piss out of my car for a while now and the motor has 65k miles on her and still running great. Honestly I think not having a pro-tune and running an OTS map is what killed your motor other than the one incorrect build. Let Tim Bailey get a hold of the car and it will run for a long time.

Oh and are you still going to throw the FPgreen on your car even though you shouldn't need it with the 10:1 rules? The Vf-39 works good enough in my opinion and is cheap as hell to replace. My torque band tuned with 94 octane was between 3-6k RPM and it was very nice. When I come for a test fit we'll have to take my car out for a spin and see what you think.
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The wastegate on my VF39 has a big crack in it. Plus I think I would have to run 20-22psi of boost on it to make 320whp/wtq... I think it would be safer to run 16psi on the FPgreen. What do you think?
 
clintonracing said:
The wastegate on my VF39 has a big crack in it. Plus I think I would have to run 20-22psi of boost on it to make 320whp/wtq... I think it would be safer to run 16psi on the FPgreen. What do you think?
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That is a big problem with the Vf-39 the wastegate crack mine has a small one as well. I am running 21 psi and making 335 ft lbs but I know you were wanting to run 92 octane. The 94 octane really makes a difference and usually most time is about 2-4 cents more expensive than 92. One thing I do agree with is that it would be safer running a turbo at 7/10 than like me running the vf-39 at 10/10. Another thing that I think about though is that with an Fpgreen you will be moving your torque band closer to the Rev-Limit of the motor so that will wear on the motor. I would rather rebuild a turbo than a motor each season. You could always go with an external wastegate piped back into the exhaust another option to get rid of the cracking problem. It really is a matter of opinions though and we could go round and round about this. I don't think that the green is a bad call it will not run out of breath like the vf at 6300rpm.
 
You know, and all kidding aside, this little Subie love-fest and tech talk would probably be more appropriate in e-mail. Just sayin'...
 
No spec tire. We talked about possibly using non-DOT tires as a performance enhancer for cars with power/weight ratios beyond a certain point, but elected not to (we might revisit that). I think Toyo, Nitto, and Hoosier are likely to cover the majority of what you'll see on ST cars.
 
I was expecting the RA1 to be the spec tire. I was suprised when I read the rules & it only specified a DOT tire. It does make getting tires easier. I would hope it will help keep the cost of racing down.
 
mtnman said:
I was expecting the RA1 to be the spec tire. I was suprised when I read the rules & it only specified a DOT tire. It does make getting tires easier. I would hope it will help keep the cost of racing down.
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That was the idea when the 12 (?) of us sat down and talked about the rule set. I would not have opposed to spec'ing the RA1 or the Nitto but at the time we had no reason too. We did not want to put a possible class racer in a position to but new tires just to run in the class either.
 
Scott Norton said:
That was the idea when the 12 (?) of us sat down and talked about the rule set. I would not have opposed to spec'ing the RA1 or the Nitto but at the time we had no reason too. We did not want to put a possible class racer in a position to but new tires just to run in the class either.
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I think not having a spec tire is part of the fun of the class. It gives us more variables to play with. Sure sponsorship would be good.. but I have a feeling that the way it would work out is that only a few of the "hardcore" members of the class would benefit from the sponsorship. Everyone else would just wind up being forced to buy tires that may not be the best fit for their budget or their car's performance.
 
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