DIY painting body panels... anyone done this?

I have an HVLP, mask, thinner, paint, etc ---------- the shopping list never ends. If you have a set up you will use it, but it is like hunting - it is cheaper to go out and buy it - like some suggested from Maaco. They buy their paint much cheaper but they had to invest in a clean air booth to get the discount. That by the way is the hardest thing to get at home - clean air for spraying, and clean air from your exhaust. (Unless you are like the Hill's with a country garage that you can hose down and aren't bothered by the 1/4" of overspray everywhere) The folks at Westcoast are pretty helpful, and if you follow all the instructions your paint will be rugged if not pretty up close. This time of year the biggest challenge is having a garage space around 65 degrees so you can paint. Then plan on a day for the paint job. You can't let the primer or intermediate coats dry too long or you have to scuff before applying the top coat. Read the instructions carefully. Do your best and we can come by when you are done and explain birdseye, drips and runs, orange peel, and dullness caused by too little or too far away application etc - it is really fun - Enjoy.
 
Go for it. Painting is fun. I tried it first time on a little utility trailer towed behind my wife's MINI Cooper. I bought some good PGP OEM paint and it went on great and then shot it with a coat of clear. Look amazing especially considering it was first time and done in our carport. That paint was really expensive, but turned out great. Next time I'll rent a spray booth. You can rent one for about $150 a day I believe. Have fun with it..doesn't have to be perfect...it's a racecar!
 
Here's the primer:

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I know it's hard to tell from the pictures but what did I do wrong? Anything? I'm eager to make them red tomorrow.
 
Colin, It is hard to determine what happen from the photos. Is this a primer or primer/surfacer? If it is just a primer, you can sand out the orange peel prior to applying the final color. If it is surfacer, you will need to follow the directions on the spec sheet, since sanding is not recommended. Feel free to give me a call to discuss your painting concerns. Dave Bennitt
 
With many of the new style paints they have limited the amount of reducer to get the VOC's down for the EPA regulations. I have found that if you add about 10% more reducer to the mix it will get rid of most of the orange peel and lay flatter. The Pro's probably do not have this problem but if I don't thin it down it will not lay as flat.
 
Scott, brilliant advice!

My first screw up was initially applying the red paint while the hood was upright. Laying it down on a table so it was flat made it easier, especially when keeping "the runs" away. I added a bit more reducer and it's working well. I'm on my 5 coat now and the hood really looks good. The fender is "good enough" at 50 feet so I put it away.

I will have pics up soon.
 
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions... I should have asked WESCO for my color code (R63) with 23 year old "fade"... oh well

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Yup! Too many times.
We use base/clear right now, but there is a really good one step out there that we want to try, once we run out of the $1500 of paint that we just bought for the 5 cars we have waiting for paint.
 
LOOKS GREAT! for the 25 hour race..I ran out of money and used house paint and rustoleum. Complete paint job; 110. I can't post pictures, but go to my website and see the finished job! If anyone could post them that would be great too!

www.pdg4.com front page
 
one other thing.....it looks like you got some dust on the surface.....Here is a trick when painting vette hoods and others. Hang them upside down in the garage and shoot them! trick I have used for 40 years!
 
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