Thinking of putting a car together

I have a car I just finished for time trials. Not sure why I put the effort in for just a couple of races. I was thinking about turning it into a production car. Can anybody tell me what I would need to change except the roll cage and pull the interior out?

Thanks!
 
GENERAL STUFF:

Roll cage
Racing seat
Proper (for class) harness system
Fire suppression system
Master electrics OFF switch
Drivers window net
Flat tow hook up point
Remove hub caps

There's more and also may be some class specific things. GO FOR IT ! !

Would be good to say what kind of car it is.

KARTER:

Two things:

1.
If you're 'thinking' about this, come to the race on May 2/3 at Pacific Raceway. Find the class (Run group) you'd be in and talk to people. You will find out everything you need to know from what it takes in the car to what it costs to do it.

2.
Your profile says you're the "NKG guy". If it's the plugs, I need a local source for NKG AP8FS and AP9FS. Can't find um at your random parts store :)
 
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GENERAL STUFF:

Roll cage
Racing seat
Proper (for class) harness system
Fire suppression system
Master electrics OFF switch
Drivers window net
Flat tow hook up point
Remove hub caps

There's more and also may be some class specific things. GO FOR IT ! !

Would be good to say what kind of car it is.

From SCCA Track Trials to Conference I bolded the above.

I (and Scott Norton who is on this forum as well) have just gone through this process. We both ran SCCA TT for the last couple of years and are preparing to enter our Novice season with Conference.

TT already requires
- a fixed back seat (FIA approved or NON-FIA with support brace)
- Fire extinguisher or supression system
- min 5 point harness
- Appropriate PPE

Technically you don't even need to remove the interior. The SCCA touring classes will ONLY let you remove the necessary interior pieces to accomodate safety upgrades.
 
Richard and Steve have pretty much covered it. Unfortunately TT is on a downhill trend last year and half. But that is a whole different topic.

My advice:
1. Pick a class and read the rules very carefully. It is easy to over prep a car and not be legal without going backwards a bunch of money. The rules are on the ICSCC website here http://www.icscc.com/rules/comp_regs_2009_complete.pdf
Quick easy read on classes (Most are SCCA based or close to it) here http://www.icscc.com/forms/classes.pdf

2. Once you pick a class ignore the performance mods and go for safety and reliability. Showing up for as many races as you can afford and getting laps is far more beneficial then running 3 races and sitting out the season. More performance will come from laps and improving your skills as a driver then anything you can do to the car.

3. You have done this already by posting here. There is a wealth of experience and hard earned knowledge from some very good helpful people.

4. Listen. Listen some more. Ask questions. Listen. Repeat.

5. Go the above mentioned ICSCC site and read every page. I know it’s a lot but you will learn a lot from those before you. The memos with officials columns and advice is a good place to start.

Post up what car you have and some one here will have run the car before and help I am sure.

Good luck and welcome to best race family you will find anywhere.
They will help you when you need it and scold you when you need it too. (Don’t ask me how I know :eek: )

Come on in the waters great.
 
Just don't swim to close to Scott....don't ask me how I know:D


Oh yeah, what kind of car is it, inquiring minds want to know!

We have not banged fenders yet. Mike and I did rub wheels (kart wheels) and Randy "moved" me because I was slower...LOL
 
Thanks for all the replies.

The car is a 98 VW GTI with a VR6. I am looking to just do production class racing. The car is mostly stock except suspension and i have all the stock parts to put it back if needed.

I would love to come out for the May race but already have plans to attend the track trials.

I will have to make a few changes but for the most part the Cage is really the hardest part and that is just money right... ;)
 
Thanks for all the replies.

The car is a 98 VW GTI with a VR6. I am looking to just do production class racing. The car is mostly stock except suspension and i have all the stock parts to put it back if needed.

I would love to come out for the May race but already have plans to attend the track trials.

I will have to make a few changes but for the most part the Cage is really the hardest part and that is just money right... ;)

I would recommend:
Pat's Autosport
Service-Development-Race Preparation
Website; www.patsautosport.com
Contact; patsautosport@yahoo.com
(253) 288-9758

Lots of people (including Steve Clinton and Randy Blaylock) have been very happy with his work.
He does great work and understands we are not made of money.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

The car is a 98 VW GTI with a VR6. I am looking to just do production class racing. The car is mostly stock except suspension and i have all the stock parts to put it back if needed.

I would love to come out for the May race but already have plans to attend the track trials.

I will have to make a few changes but for the most part the Cage is really the hardest part and that is just money right... ;)

Yeah I think that is a fairly accurate statment about the cage... unless you break a motor right before you decide to put the cage in... don't ask how I know this ;)

For sure go with Pat's -- Robb will probably be the one to do the welding at Pat's. He runs his own fabrication business (Godspeed Fabrications) out of Pat's shop.

Drop my name to Robb if you are down there asking questions. Uh well... maybe not he may run away screaming if he hears my name ... mumble mumble stupid STi mumble.... j/k :D

If you would like to take a look at my cage that he did, feel free to hit me up and maybe we can get together.
 
I am the NGK rep for Washington and Alaska. Online is a good source or if you tell me where you live I can recommend a local place.
 
Richard Broadhead

The plug manufacturer is NGK not NKG...

LOL.. Duhhh. Maybe that's why I'm having a hard time finding them! :confused:

Nahh, got the initials right when I see the boxes.

That place in the link is in Sun City, CA. I was hoping to find a place with the AP8's that was less then a 3.5 day round trip.
 
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They are a very big customer of NGK. Let me see if I can find a place. I have a few places I could probably get to stock them if I promise some sales.
 
G.I. Joes has the NGK plugs but, do not ask them to stock um. They are closing down, going out of business.

Went to the BIG GOOB sale on Monday. HUGE discounts! Everything in the store is 10% off list! Thr stuff that really won't sell is 20% off.

Yes, Karter. I usually buy on line. Just like to know if there's a local supply in case of a crises.

Maybe you could set Armadillo up as a dealer? He our (as in ICSCC) track side supplier extrordinaire!!
 
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Richard

You could always have them overnight air shipped by USPS and it would probably cost you an extra $10 for a set of plugs.
 
Oh my, Trout.

YES, USPS would be about $10.00 But the Post Office doesn't sell NGK spark plugs that I know of.

Although we try to support our LOCAL shops and suppliers we do have to order a lot of small stuff from Pegasus (including plugs) and other shops that have specialty Reynard parts. They only use UPS.

They pass on a portion of their volume discount to us racers.

UPS (notice I didn't say USP)

Overnight - $34.50 before 10AM (with $5.45 discount)
Overnight - $31.17 (with $5 discount)
2nd day - $15.15

I try to get orders for that little stuff in on Monday and use 3 day for $13.00 if I need it by following weekend.

BTW: Ground to Seattle takes 5/6 days from Wisconsin = $7.60

P.S.
The USPS versus UPS overnight rate difference is probably partially to do blame for postage increasing on May 11 to 44 cents. Me guess's the overnight rates will go up too.
 
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Richard,
Where are you located? I will try to get somebody to carry the plug. No I will not try Joes... they were not my account anyways.
 
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